Orecchiette with sausage meat ragu


Orecchiette: little ear. These tiny pasta frisbees are traditionally served with vegetable sauces. In Puglia, where they originate, they like to eat them with turnip tops, but why eat turnip tops when you can fill up the little concave shapes of orecchiette pasta with tasty globules of pork?   The key to the ragu is to [...]

Next pop-up: Prawn Frenzy on Thurs 26 Nov

Prawn pop up

The people that brought you Lobster Frenzy and Scallop Frenzy are back, with PRAWN FRENZY! A return to Clerkenwell Kitchen, 27-31 Clerkenwell Close, EC1R 0AT, for several courses of crustacean, and a non-shellfish dessert on Thursday 26th November. Cost £35. Around 40 places available, first come first served… To book a table, see https://www.facebook.com/events/750320211739637/ or text [...]

Indian mee goreng

Indian mee goreng

Indian mee goreng translates as Indian fried noodles. It’s a Malasian dish with Indian influences and is true fusion food, incorporating soy sauce, kalamansi lime, Indian spices and potatoes. This version uses lamb, and I’ve omitted the ketchup and tofu which you see in many recipes. I preferred the dish without the taste of ketchup [...]

Ossobuco ravioli


Ossobuco ravioli 1. Make ossobuco, leaving aside a couple of shanks. When the meat has cooled, remove bones and herbs, and blend.   2. Make the pasta dough: mix 500g flour, 3 eggs + 2 egg yolks and a pinch of salt on a large work surface. Work the dough for at least 10 minutes, [...]



Ossobuco Making ossobuco is an extremely satisfying way to spend an afternoon. I find it very comforting to know that while I’m pottering round the house there is a stock pot simmering away in the corner, slowly extracting all the goodness from meat bones. Softening onion, garlic and celery into a caramelized soffritto further increases [...]


Langoustines - keep it simple

In Spain, one of the most highly valued, and therefore most expensive, crustaceans on the menu is Cigalas. Cigala is variously translated in English as Dublin Bay Prawn (which you may have heard of), Norway Lobster (which sounds like rebranding but is actually a translation of the species name) scampi (which evokes images of breaded [...]

Spaghetti with clams

Spaghetti with clams

I love clams. Like mussels, clams are little stock making machines – the juice they produce is at least half the point. But if I had to choose, my desert island bivalve would be clams. Spaghetti with clams is a classic Italian dish. Like linguini with crab, in restaurants it’s easy to be shortchanged on the [...]

Linguini with crab


Linguine with crab   The Spanish consume the largest amount of fish in Europe (43 kg per person/year compared to 18 kg on average in the UK); they also have the highest life expectancy in Europe (the UK ranks 12th). Of course there are many possible confounding factors at play here – other things that [...]

Raspberry sorbet

Raspberry sorbet

This is the best raspberry sorbet recipe I’ve tried, perfect for two to share. Makes around 500ml. Ingredients: 500g fresh raspberries 75g caster sugar 2 tbsp water 1 tbsp lime juice Heat up the sugar and water in a small saucepan to make a syrup. Allow to cool, purée the raspberries and add to the [...]

Swordfish with jersey royals, baby gem and pancetta

swordfish with baby gem, pancetta and jersey royals

An easy, quick and delicious Summer recipe. Serves 2. Ingredients: 2 swordfish steaks, approx 1cm thick 250g small new potatoes, such as Jersey Royals 1 baby gem lettuce 6 thin slices pancetta 1 tbsp chopped chives 15ml sherry vinegar 15ml extra virgin olive oil 4 small salted anchovies in oil 1 small shallot, finely diced [...]

kao man gai

kao man gai

I’m not one for detoxing, or even healthy eating, in January. But kao man gai, or Hainanese poached chicken and rice, is both healthy and very delicious. It’s probably one of Thailand’s best loved dishes, a street food classic originally from China and rarely seen in Thai restaurants in the West. Also perfect for a cold [...]

Roast suckling Mangalitza pork loin

roast suckling mangalitza loin

Mangalitza pigs were originally bred in Hungary and prized for their high fat content. They also grow woolly coats! The popularity of the breed had declined over recent years but now seems to be on the way up, driven by demand for well-marbled, fatty meat that tastes great. It has been bred in the UK [...]

Prawns with garlic, chilli, lemon zest and parsley

Spicy prawns with garlic, lemon zest, chilli and parsley

Serves 2 Ingredients: 8 large king prawns 2 tbsp olive oil 2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped Zest of half a lemon 1/2 scotch bonnet chilli, finely sliced Pinch of sea salt Small bunch parsley, finely chopped Heat the oil to a medium heat and add the garlic, stirring, for 30 seconds. Then turn the [...]

Deep fried squid with garlic, coriander and white pepper

Deep fried squid with garlic and white pepper

Is there anything better than deep fried squid? Nope. Serves 2 300g cleaned and scored squid, cut into 2cm pieces 1.5 tbsp fish sauce 5 large cloves garlic, finely chopped Several grinds of white pepper Small bunch coriander leaves picked 100g plain flour Vegetable oil for deep frying Sweet chilli sauce (optional) Mix the squid [...]

Beef shin ragu with pappardelle

Beef shin ragu with pappardelle

This is a delicious pasta dish. The rich, long-simmered sauce coats the pappardelle so well. And it only takes around five hours to cook, perfect for a midweek supper if you’re unemployed. The bone marrow in the shin adds a fantastic richness the sauce. Serves 4 with enough sauce left over for another 4 portions [...]

Eating out: The Shiori, London WC2

Interior, The Shiori, London

The Shiori is a tiny Japanese restaurant tucked away on a Bayswater side street. It’s the latest incarnation of the (even tinier) Sushi of Shiori at 144 Drummond St NW1, which is now a shop selling Japanese ceramics. Kyoto-trained Chef Takashi Takagi is in the kitchen at The Shiori and specialises in kaiseki dining. Kaiseki [...]

Tasting Beaucastel

Beaucastel tasting ar Roberson

I love the wines of France’s Southern Rhône. The hot weather and terroirs there are capable of producing wines with incredible levels of fruit, alcohol and power. However, they are also capable of producing wines of incredible elegance and finesse. Both were on display recently at a tasting of Château de Beaucastel, one of the leading producers of the [...]

Veal sauce

Pan roasted veal chop with cepes and veal sauce

There’s not much that’s better to eat than a rose veal loin chop. Rose veal is the ‘ethical’ veal that we should be eating. We should be eating it because its very tasty. We should also be eating it because it’s from young male cows, the unwanted product of dairy farming, that otherwise might be [...]

Thai deep fried pork ribs

Thai deep fried cured pork ribs

This is one of those recipes where you need to be a bit brave. Leaving pork ribs to cure and ferment at room temperature for a few days sounds like a recipe for hospitalisation. But it’s a dish from Thai food maestro David Thompson, which tells you it’s going to enhance, rather than limit, your [...]

Keralan cooking

Keralan roast pork

The food of Kerala in Southern India is fascinating. I’ve been lucky enough to visit the region a couple of times and it’s a very beautiful, laid-back part of the world, with lots of tropical coastline and inland waterways. The area is cultural melting pot, having hosted Hindu, Christian, Muslim and Jewish communities over the [...]


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